Letter 98: TLC Travel Guide: Boston
When we visit Hannah!
Welcome! This weekly email newsletter is where women spanning all ages share their sense of identity and their awareness of our world through personal narrative. Stories shared here come from writers across many generations, cultures, locations, and ethnicities.
We’d like to welcome our recent new subscribers! If you haven’t subscribed yet, please join us!
Welcome Back!
Emily and I had a wonderful break and are thrilled to be back here with you. We are even more excited to launch a new series today: TLC Travel Guides! We asked several of our friends and fellow writers to share their favorite parts of their cities with each of you. Emily and I are so excited to share eight (!) different cities all over the United States. First up: Boston with my sweet former student, Hannah!
Hannah is a delight in all ways. She’s incredibly insightful, a tremendously gifted writer, and has a deep heart for others and their suffering. Hannah found her way to Boston in 2020 to attend graduate school and has stayed ever since! With her keen eye, I know Hannah has found some real Boston gems. Enjoy! —Molly
“Boston is an oasis in the desert, a place where the larger proportion of people are loving, rational and happy.”
Julia Ward Howe
Eat Out!
Pescador (498 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA 02215)
There’s no dearth of excellent food in Boston, but Pescador is a recent discovery I’ve been dreaming about nonstop.
Featuring coastal cuisine from around the world, this Kenmore Square gem is known for its delightful and imaginative seafood dishes, refreshing cocktails, and gorgeous ambiance. Most seafood is sourced locally from New England waters, and Boston favorites feature prominently on the menu (lobster risotto, anyone?).
In addition to using fresh, local ingredients, Pescador also has an incredibly knowledgeable staff eager to share about the wide variety of cuisines their menu draws from. If you find yourself unsure of what to order, you can trust that your server will provide an exceptional recommendation.
On my first visit to Pescador, the staff suggestion was so delicious that it has now become a go-to order: octopus & chorizo and agua chiles to start, the roast branzino for dinner, and the Carajillo “tiramisu” for dessert. Truly though, the food is so incredible that I don’t think it’s possible to order incorrectly.
Given how exquisite the dinner was, I’m eager to return and try out Pescador’s brand-new brunch menu!
Always Looking For Books
Harvard Book Store (1256 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, MA 02138)
One of the oldest and most cherished independent bookstores in Greater Boston, Harvard Book Store has been selling new and used books out of its Harvard Square storefront since 1932. Though its name suggests otherwise, Harvard Book Store is not actually affiliated with Harvard University (although you can definitely find some Crimson-themed gifts and trinkets inside!).
I often spend hours just wandering through this bookshop itself, but the store also puts on some phenomenal community events in conjunction with local universities and small businesses. The author talks, lectures, and sidewalk book sales are so much fun and a fantastic way to meet fellow bookworms in Boston.
Harvard Book Store’s used book selection is also unmatched – I’ve found some excellent reads there for a great bargain! (**Note: This is one of Molly’s favorite bookstores in the country, too!)
Get Outside!
Walking the Charles River Esplanade
The Charles River Esplanade is a three-mile walkway and public park stretching from Boston’s West End all the way to the main campus of Boston University, near Allston.
The Esplanade is known for breathtaking views of the Charles River, as well as the skylines of downtown Boston and Cambridge. Loved by locals and tourists alike, you can find runners and cyclists squeezing in some scenic miles, couples enjoying romantic picnics, landscape photographers looking for the perfect angle, and regatta spectators cheering on their teams.
The Esplanade boasts gorgeous scenery all year, but I personally recommend going at golden hour in the summer – the sunsets over the river are truly majestic!
Taking a Break Indoors
Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (25 Evans Way, Boston, MA 02115)
Boston has several wonderful museums, but in my humble opinion, none rival the Gardner. The Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum is one of the most picturesque and eclectic art installations in the United States.
With the architectural splendor of a Venetian mansion and a medley of masterpieces from some of the world’s most renowned artists, the museum is truly a feast for the senses. It also has an undeniable aura of mystery: In 1990, the Gardner Museum became the site of the single largest art heist to ever occur on American soil. To this day, the perpetrators of the heist have never been identified, but local lore has given way to several fascinating theories and rumors.
Whether you’re an art, architecture, or true crime aficionado, the Gardner Museum is bound to be an enjoyable and unforgettable experience. Even if you’re just seeking some respite on a rainy Boston day, this is the perfect place to meander about and discover something new.
Hannah’s Favorite Part of the City
The North End neighborhood of Boston, also known as “Little Italy,” is home to some of the finest food, wine, and cultural events the city has to offer. Arrive hungry, because there’s no shortage of gastronomic delights on quite literally every street corner.
Visitors to the North End may find themselves overwhelmed by the sheer number of Italian restaurants to choose from, but fear not – they’re all uniquely tasty (although Quattro, Terramia, and Locale are some of my personal favorites). Walking down Hanover Street, most visitors are bound to find themselves in the crossfires of a decades-old cannoli rivalry between Mike’s Pastry and Modern Pastry.
Tempted though you might be to wait in the perpetually long lines at either, here’s a local secret: wander down Salem Street, away from the crowds, until you find yourself at Bova’s Bakery. This humble, family-owned hole-in-the-wall serves up the absolute best cannolis, cookies, and Italian pastries in all of Boston.
Wander even further into the neighborhood to see some neat old churches, beautifully preserved cemeteries from the Revolutionary War period, and Paul Revere’s residence. Boston’s famous Freedom Trail also weaves extensively through the North End, so there are plenty of historical monuments and markers to see.
Shopping Excursions
SoWa Open Market (500 Harrison Avenue, Boston, MA 02118)
Nestled in Boston’s South End is a small community called SoWa (short for “South of Washington Street”). SoWa is a bit of an unassuming area at first glance: with large industrial lofts, sparse commercial activity, and tons of highway noise, it’s not exactly a place most tourists would think to visit.
Yet, SoWa is a sort of cultural epicenter in Boston. It’s the heart of the arts and design community and a destination for artists across New England and beyond. Many Boston artists take their masterpieces to the SoWa Open Market, an eclectic and enchanting forum where a variety of regional goods are bought and sold.
At the market, one can find antique Victorian furniture, locally woven garments, hand-forged jewelry, beeswax candles, leather-bound journals, and astonishingly gorgeous paintings (and trust me, that’s just scratching the surface!). Whether you’re on the hunt for a one-of-a-kind souvenir, a special collector’s item, or the next DIY project for your home, the SoWa Open Market is the place for you. It’s especially delightful in the summer when the biggest influx of vendors takes place.
If you’re looking for a fun, leisurely activity to fill a sunny Saturday in Boston, I can’t recommend a visit to SoWa enough.
Checking that Forecast
New England famously experiences all four seasons, so packing for a trip to Boston greatly depends on what time of year you’re visiting. Summers are usually quite hot and humid, so I recommend packing light, moisture-wicking clothes, sun protection, and shoes or sandals that won’t leave you vulnerable to chafing or blisters.
Conversely, winters in Boston are bitterly cold and dry, with occasional heavy snow. If visiting in the winter, I recommend bringing several warm layers, a good parka or weatherproof coat, and boots with traction. Spring and autumn are typically mild and quite pleasant, with cool to warm temperatures during the day and chilly evenings. If you plan to visit during either of these seasons, pack a mix of clothes (as daytime temps can vary greatly), comfortable walking shoes, and a midweight jacket.
In gratitude,
Hannah Henrikson
P.S. Do you love Boston too? What would you add to this list? Share with us in the comments.
Love these tips and descriptions! As one preps for the Gardner Museum, there’s a gripping podcast detailing all the theories; each is so well told that I was sure I knew the right theory…until the next episode! It’s called Last Seen.